Difference between revisions of "Book:Equipment"

Latest revision as of 20:16, 14 March 2022

Every adventurer needs stuff. Whether it be weapons and armor for waging war, horses and wagons for cross-country traveling, food and shelter for surviving in the wilderness, or specialized gear for pulling off whatever feats your character aspires to, there is one place to find everything your character might need: right here.

Wealth

Wealth in Immortal Legacy is measured in sovereigns (𝕤), which are also commonly called "crowns", with both terms stemming from the common practice of minting coins with popular current and past rulers or heroes on one face. Sovereigns are cast from at least some amount of gold, silver, or another precious metal.

Everyday items and services may cost less than a sovereign; there are 100 cents (¢) in a sovereign, also commonly called "coppers," or "pennies."

Starting characters begin the game with 500𝕤 unless they have purchased the Wealth trump.

Clothing

Sometimes it's not who you know, but how you dress. Here are some examples of outfits available for your character to purchase.

Weapons

Peace means having a bigger stick than the other guy. Detailed herein are all of the bigger sticks.

Action Points

This details the number of Action Points necessary to use the weapon.

Parry

The bonus the weapon grants the character on a Parry Roll when the weapon is used to parry an attack.

Harm

The amount of damage the weapon does on its own, which is factored into the Damage Roll. The weapons listed in this chapter are intended to be wielded by creatures of Size 0. Weapons made for smaller creatures do less damage; weapons made for larger creatures do more damage. See Appendix I: Size & Weighted Damage regarding differences between weapons for creatures of different Sizes.

Type

The type of Harm the weapon inflicts. Either S for slashing, B for bludgeoning, or P for piercing. Certain spells, items, and armor protect better against certain types of Harm. If a weapon lists two types of Harm, they are in order of usual usage. A character must state which type of Harm he intends to perform during an attack (for instance, slash or thrust with his longsword); otherwise, the first is assumed.

Notes

Any relevant notes about the weapon.

Cost

The standard market price in sovereigns for a sturdy, forged iron copy of the weapon.

Mus

The minimum required Muscle to wield the weapon effectively in combat. A character may use a weapon that is too heavy for him, but for each point of Muscle below this threshold, he takes a −1 penalty to Attack and Parry rolls. If you're trying to wield a weapon made for a smaller creature, your Muscle score is considered 5 higher for each point of Size difference. if you're trying to wield a weapon made for a larger creature, it's considered 5 lower for each point of Size difference.

Weapons marked with a dagger (†) are small or light and easy to hide, granting a +2 bonus on Thievery/Disguise checks to conceal them.

Weapons marked with a double-dagger (‡) are two-handed weapons. They must be held with both hands. Two handed weapons give a character a −4 penalty to Thievery/Disguise checks to conceal them, but a +2 bonus against being Disarmed.

Weapons marked with an asterisk (*) are designed to be used one-handed, but may be wielded with both hands for increased stability. When these weapons are used two-handed, their Muscle requirement is reduced by one and they receive a +2 bonus against being Disarmed.

Ranged weapons list an effective range. For every 10 feet past that, an attacker takes a −1 to the Attack Roll.

Hand-to-hand

• Unarmed – Your bare fists. You want a description? Look at 'em!
• Cestus/knuckles – A metal or leather covering which is worn over the hand and/or knuckles and provides extra weight compared to a bare fist.
• Punch dagger – A small knife with a T-shaped handle held in the fist and thrust at opponents.
• Claw – A pair of metal bands worn around the fingers or hand which have on the back side 3–5 small, curved, metal blades, resembling the claws of a wild animal.

Daggers

• Dagger/knife – A small but utilitarian weapon, with either one or two bladed edges. Useful as a backup in close-quarters combat. Less than eight inches in length.
• Parrying dagger – The parrying dagger, also known as main-gauche or sword-breaker, is a long fencing knife with a heavy guard surmounted by slots or prongs. It is a defensive weapon used to trap and sometimes break larger blades.
• Sai - Functionally nearly identical to the parrying dagger, a sai is a long, blunt, dagger-shaped metal baton with two short prongs stemming from the sides.
• Stiletto/poignard – A long, narrow spike used for stabbing deeply. Has no cutting edge.
• Dirk/combat knife – A heavier knife with good reach (up to one foot in length) designed primarily for fighting.

One-handed Straight Swords

• Short sword/gladius – A very common and dependable thrusting sword, less than three feet in length.
• Longsword – A versatile and well-balanced sword with a good defensive capabilities. Usually around four feet in length.
• Broadsword – Very popular among soldiers and infantry. Wider and heavier than a longsword, these blades emphasize strong slashing attacks. Between three and four feet in length.
• Katana – A masterfully crafted sword and status symbol. It has a slightly curved, surprisingly heavy blade and a single, extremely sharp edge designed for quick killing blows rather than sustained dueling. Normally used in two hands, it may be wielded one-handed with reduced cutting power. The hilt varies in length, but the blade itself is usually 28 inches long. Blades of this design require very advanced metallurgy and skilled smiths to create, and are not available in societies that have not mastered complex steel smelting processes. As a result, this sword is automatically considered Well-made and provides +1 Accuracy.
• Bastard Sword – Also known as the hand-and-a-half sword, this is a larger (usually four to five feet in length) and heavier version of a longsword. Like the katana, it is designed to be used in two hands, but it may be wielded one-handed to allow punches and grappling with the offhand while in close quarters.

Two-handed Straight Swords

• Katana - See entry in One-handed Straight Swords.
• Bastard Sword - See entry in One-handed Straight Swords.
• Nodachi – An extra-long version of the katana, offering greater cutting power and reach. The entire sword including the handle is at least five feet in length. This sword is also considered Well-made and provides +1 Accuracy.
• Greatsword/zweihander – This largest of swords is often six to seven feet in length and is effective against arms which normally outreach swords, such as spears and polearms. The best greatsword designs include massive crossguards and unsharpened areas near the hilt, allowing for a modified grip and thus solid Parrying defense for a weapon of such size.

Curved Blades

• Sickle – A crescent-bladed farming tool that makes a decent improvised weapon. Only the inside curve of the blade is sharpened.
• Shotel - A long, slender fighting sickle that excels at reaching around shields. Generally, only the inside curve of the blade is sharpened.
• Machete - A relatively heavy, unsophisticated short blade primarily intended to chop through vegetation.
• Khopesh/sappara – An unusual sword around two feet in length, with a long hilt and an abruptly hooked end, well-suited to snagging weapons or shields and Disarming opponents. Only the outside curve of the blade is sharpened.
• Cutlass – A versatile slashing weapon similar to a saber, very popular amongst sailors and marines. Two to three feet in length, with a basket-like hand guard and broad blade.
• Scimitar/shamshir – A light, curved blade with a relatively short hilt, often employed by light cavalry. Two to four feet in length.
• Falchion – A sword with a long, single-edged, slightly-curved blade that is weighted at the far end, making it useful for chopping strikes. Typically around four feet in length.

Fencing Swords

• Estoc - A simple thrusting sword with good reach (three to four feet long). Designed purely to penetrate armor, it has no cutting edges.
• Saber – A sturdy, single-bladed, slightly curved sword with a hand guard. Often about 3 feet in length.
• Rapier – A quick and graceful sword, mostly used for fencing and piercing, between three and four feet in length. Its lightweight, flexible blade and ornate handguard makes it ideal for defense as well as offense.

One-handed Bludgeons

• Blackjack/sap/cosh – A small club consisting of leather-wrapped lead. Known for easy concealment.
• Club – A hunk of hard wood held in one hand. Sometimes found with simple metal reinforcements or spikes.
• Warhammer – A long-hilted cavalry weapon with a metal head created to battle armored foes. Often a spike is found on the reverse side of the head.
• Mace – A rather short (two to three-foot) war club with a heavy metal head on a sturdy wooden or metal handle.
• Flanged mace/pernach – A mace with a flanged or edged head, useful for deeper impact during a swing.

Two-handed Bludgeons

• Sledgehammer – A two-handed hammer with a heavy head on one end and a wooden haft up to three feet in length.
• Morningstar/spiked mace – A six- to seven-foot wooden shaft surmounted by a heavy, spiked head.
• Flail – Originally a tool for threshing grain, the flail consists of a three- to four-foot wooden handle and a one- to two- foot long, cylindrical striking head, connected by a foot or two of chain. Opponents have difficulty parrying swings from this weapon.
• War maul – A two-handed hammer with a three- to five-foot reinforced haft and wicked metal head, similar to a sledgehammer, but capable of more powerful impacts.

One-handed Axes

• Throwing axe/tomahawk – A simple axe useful for hand-to-hand, but primarily weighted for being thrown. Usually less than two feet in length.
• Hatchet/hand axe – Slightly bigger than a throwing axe, with a flat end of the head that can be used as a hammer.
• Kama - A razor-edged variant of the harvesting sickle, this weapon consists of an 18- to 24-inch wooden handle surmounted by a long, slightly curved blade that could be used for slicing or stabbing.
• War axe/bearded axe – The axe-head is curved on one side, and blunt on the other, with a long shaft of wood or metal held in two hands.

Two-handed Axes

• Woodcutting axe - A common tool for chopping and felling trees.
• Pickaxe/mattock – A tool used for mining and digging, and capable of delivering enough force to puncture steel plate armor, though clumsy in battle.
• War pick/beaked axe - A military derivation of the pickaxe, with a longer haft and a single, massive spike like a bird's beak surmounting its striking head. Generally three to four feet in length.
• Berserker axe/tabarzin – An intimidating axe defined by its single, long, curved blade. Four feet in length.
• Great axe/executioner – A massive, heavy axe, with a dual-bladed axe head.

Polearms

• Quarterstaff/bo – A long wooden pole, typically taller than the wielder. Crude copies can be found nearly anywhere, but more sophisticated versions are crafted of the sturdiest wood and reinforced with metal caps.
• Scythe – A harvesting tool with a multi-handled shaft around five feet in length. Its curved blade with one sharp edge extends perpendicular to the shaft. This weapon is slow and clumsy at close-quarters combat, but can cause grevious harm to an unarmored foe.
• Partizan/ranseur - A six- to eight-foot polearm that resembles an oversized trident. Its long, narrow central spearhead is guarded by two curving or sharply angled prongs, giving it a defensive edge against other polearms at the expense of some attacking power.
• Halberd/poleaxe – The most common pole weapon, around six or seven feet in length, with an large axe head topped with a long spike. The reverse of the axe head has a thorn or hook useful in combating mounted riders.
• Lucerne hammer - A sort of oversized warhammer designed to combat heavy cavalry, this seven- to nine-foot polearm is topped with a blunt smashing head and a foot-long spike for crushing breastplates and finding gaps in armor, respectively.
• Heavy glaive/naginata – A wicked, broad, 18-inch blade sitting atop a wooden pole six to seven feet in length.

Spears

• Javelin/pilum – A light spear, favored for throwing, but also can be used in melee. Possesses an iron head around 18 inches in length and a long, wooden shaft. Between 6–8 feet in length.
• Hunting spear - Among humanity's oldest tools for killing, hunting spears range between five and eight feet in length, and are topped by small, triangular heads of sharpened bone or stone, or merely by sharpening and fire-hardening the wooden tip.
• Pitchfork – Simple farming tool used for lifting and pitching. Can have two to six tines or prongs. Usually made of wood, but the head can be made of metal.
• Infantry spear – A simple, solid spear used by foot soldiers. Between six and eight feet in length.
• Trident – A three-pronged spear used in fishing and combat. Usually made of metal.
• Broadspear – A spear with an unusually wide, bladelike head, useful for varying thrusts with slashing swings.
• Boar spear/barred spear – Heavy, reinforced spear with a pair of lugs or wings at the base of the blade, to prevent it from driving too deep into a victim and becoming entangled. Useful for parrying.
• Pike/sarissa – A devastating spear when used in formation against charging opponents, but ineffective at close-quarters combat. Between ten and twenty feet in length.
• Lance – A specialized cavalry spear with a heavy metal tip, only effective when used in mounted combat. Devastating at full gallop, but slow to ready. Usually between eight and twelve feet in length.

Whips

• Bullwhip – A single-tailed whip made of braided leather, historically used in cattle herding. Around ten feet long and capable of wrapping around objects or the limbs of opponents.
• Studded/spiked whip – Similar to a bullwhip, but with metal spikes or studs woven throughout the braided leather.

Chains

• Kusari-gama – A Kama (see One-handed Axes) attached at its base to a heavy metal weight by a three- to five-foot length of chain. The weighted ball can be used to strike opponents and wrap around limbs or weapons, and entangled foes are easily dispatched by the Kama blade.
• Ball & chain – A solid metal weight attached to a four- to six-foot chain. Sometimes these are available with a weight at each end. The velocity of the weight combined with its small striking surface makes this weapon's attacks very difficult to deflect.

Thrown

• Dart – A small, heavy projectile with fletching on the tail and a narrow pointed end. Too short to be used as ammunition in a bow.
• Shuriken – Small, flattened metal object with three to twelve sharpened tips.
• Throwing knife – A knife weighted and designed exclusively for throwing.
• Boomerang/throwing stick – A well-balanced bent, flat, wooden stick capable of striking targets up to 40 yards away with stunning force. A mundane boomerang will not return if it impacts a target.
• Throwing axe/tomahawk - See entry in One-handed Axes.
• Javelin/pilum - See entry in Spears.
• Chakram – A circular, flat, metal ring with a bladed edge that can be thrown between 100–300 feet.

Bows

• Short Bow – A curved limb typically made of wood with a tense string. Made for launching narrow, fletched arrows. With skill, can be used to great effect while mounted. Effective range is between 3 and 150 yards.
• Longbow – Similar to a short bow, but nearly as tall as the person who wields it. These are capable of launching arrows with startling force over great distances. Effective range is between 4 and 250 yards.

See the Combat Items heading below for bow ammunition.

Crossbows

• Pistol crossbow – A one-handed crossbow, capable of being easily concealed. Bolts for this crossbow are much smaller than standard bolts. Its small size also makes it effective at point-blank range, though it is only accurate up to 50 yards.
• Crossbow – A bow mounted horizontally on a wooden stock. A high-tension bow string delivers around the same punch as a longbow in a smaller size. Typically reloaded with a pull or push lever. Effective range is between 3 and 100 yards.
• Heavy crossbow/arbalest – A very large crossbow with a metal bow. Has a crank to be used for reloading. This crossbow hits with a sickeningly massive force. Effective range is between 4 and 300 yards.

See the Combat Items heading below for bow ammunition.

Firearms

• Matchlock Pistol - The most basic firearm with a mechanical firing system, in which musket balls are propelled down the smooth bore by touching a burning "match" or length of twisted cord to an ignition pan loaded with gunpowder. Expensive, cumbersome, slow to reload, and loud, it is nonetheless a terribly powerful weapon at short range. Effective from point blank to 30 yards out.
• Matchlock long gun - Larger and heavier than a pistol, but more accurate at range, which is between 3 and 75 yards.
• Flintlock Pistol – A more advanced firing mechanism (the re-usable flint replaces the troublesome match and all the associated problems of relying upon an open flame for ignition) and better overall construction makes this pistol more accurate and quicker to reload than its matchlock ancestor. Effective from point blank to 50 yards out.
• Flintlock long gun – The most advanced hand-held weapon of pre-industrial society. Effective from 3 to 100 yards out.

See the Combat Items heading below for bow ammunition.

Miscellaneous & Specialized

• Net – Derived from the fishing device, this mass of ropes and weights is meant to encumber and hold an opponent.
• Blowgun – The ammunition from a blowgun doesn't cause much damage, but is an effective way to deliver harmful contaminants (especially poisons and sedatives).
• Sling – A leather or rope corded weapon which can be loaded with blunt objects, such as stones, to greatly increase their thrown velocity.

Shields

Characters that use shields don't actually receive any sort of armor bonus. Instead, they use the shield for parrying during their Evasion Roll.

• Buckler - A small dueling shield, at most eighteen inches in diameter.
• Kite shield/heater – An advanced shield intended to complement heavier armor, tapered at the bottom to reduce weight. Constructed of wood with metal rivets and reinforcements, commonly strapped to the arm. Useful in melee combat as a bludgeoning weapon.
• Heavy shield/hoplon – The most basic shield,  large enough to cover nearly from the shoulders to the knees. Often dish-shaped, made of wood and covered with a layer of bronze or similar metal. Its weight makes it particularly effective as a bludgeoning weapon, and is known to knock an opponent backwards or prone.
• Tower shield/scutum - A massive oval or rectangular shield that can conceal most of the wielder's body, but is heavy and limits mobility.

Armor

Sometimes the only thing between you and the business end of a nasty pig-sticker is a few scant pieces of leather and metal. Here are the defensive armor choices available to your characters.

Bonus

This is the number you add to Defense Rolls and record in the "Armor" box on the character sheet

Hindrance

The penalty imposed to certain rolls because of the armor's weight or size. The GM might require that the hindrance is applied to skill checks such as Grip, Dash, Gymnastics, Stealth, Thievery, and perhaps even Perception (if wearing a fully-enclosed helm). The weight of armor should be included when determining Might checks to lift another person, or swim while wearing heavy armor.

Don AP

The amount of time in AP that it takes to put on this armor with assistance. Without assistance, it's double this number.

Remove AP

The amount of time in AP that it takes to remove this armor with assistance. Without assistance, it's double this number.

• Padded Armor – Armor which is made of layered fabric, such as cotton, linen, wool, or even soft leather, and is usually quilted. Sometimes referred to as a gambeson or a jupon. Often padded armor is a single, long garment that partially covers the thighs.
• Brigandine – A heavy cloth surcoat reinforced with numerous metal rivets. While offering decent, lightweight protection on its own, it makes for an excellent outer layer for mail.
• Lamellar – Lamellar armor is composed of many small plates of hardened and laminated leather or metal laced into a padded backing, and generally includes a breastplate, thigh, shin, arm, and wristguards, though it may also take the form of a rather stiff, calf-length coat with short sleeves and bracers.
• Mail – A mail shirt, called a hauberk, is knee-length and woven from hundred of interlocking metal rings, worn over a lightly padded gambeson. A suit of mail also includes a coif covering the head, chausses to cover the legs, and mail-reinforced gauntlets. Mail is heavier and more movement restricting than lighter armors, but offers a high degree of protection against Slashing and Piercing attacks.
• Cuirass – Commonly called a breastplate, the simplest type of cuirass encloses the vital organs of the torso in boiled or laminated leather. Cuirasses of bronze, forged iron, or steel tend to consist of two to four durable metal plates held together with leather straps and laces. While a cuirass offers solid defense for chest and back, it is best worn over padded armor to ensure some degree of protection for the limbs.
• Plate – A suit of metal plates affixed in certain vital locations. Poleyns are strapped over the knees, cuisses over the thighs, couters cover the elbows, pauldrons the shoulders, and a cuirass protects the torso. A tasset is attached below the cuirass to cover the hips. This suit also includes gauntlets and greaves. Plate armor is very noisy and restrictive to movement, but provides great protection.
• Full Plate – A finely-crafted suit of armor that is individually fitted to the wearer. Full suits of plate armor are tremendously expensive; even the plainest suit of full plate marks the wearer as someone of wealth, and many are elaborately adorned to show status and lineage. Each piece of the armor is riveted and interlocked with another piece, providing total covering of the body from head to toe. A helmet with a visor is included, along with sabatons covering the feet and gauntlets for the hand. The pieces of armor are strapped to a layer of padded armor beneath. Full plate is heavy and restrictive, but provides the best protection possible in a pre-gunpowder age.

Modifications

Several modifications are available to trick out your weapon or armor.

Weapon Mods

• Cheap – 50% cost of item, but is considered ruined after taking only a single point of Degradation. Incompatible with well-made.
• Well-made – +1 to Accuracy. Cost is additional 50%. As noted above, the katana and nodachi are already considered well-made.
• Telescopic Sight – 350𝕤. An accessory for firearms. Adds +1 Accuracy.
• Bayonet – 25𝕤. An accessory for rifles which makes them function just like a hunting spear in melee combat.
• Cruel – Creatures struck with the weapon gain a Bleeding Wound. Cost is additional 50%. Incompatible with bludgeoning weapons.

Armor Mods

• Cheap – 50% cost of item, but is considered ruined after taking only a single point of Degradation. Incompatible with well-made.
• Ornate – +1 to Leadership, Negotiate, and Intimidate. Cost is additional 50% and repair cost is additional 25%.
• Well-made – +1 to Armor bonus. Cost is additional 50%.

Gear

• Camp Kit – Tent, bedroll, heavy blanket, lantern.
• Cooking Kit – Spices, dry rations, cooking pots, utensils, flint and steel, oil, fishhooks, fish-line.
• Climbing Kit – 50′ rope, grappling hook, pitons, hammer,
• Digging Kit – Pick, shovel, hammer, torches, crowbar.
• Disguise Kit – Prosthetics, glue, make-up, powders, scented oils, wigs, false teeth, hair dyes, fake jewelry. Grants a +4 to Disguise check, supplies are depleted after 5 uses.
• Healing Kit – Herbs, salves, cloth, bandages, needle and thread, scalpel, scissors. Grants a +4 to Healing check, supplies are depleted after 5 uses.
• Hunter's Kit – Bird call, fishhooks, fish-line, snares, butterfly net, bear trap.
• Lock and key – A metal locking mechanism and the key that opens it, appropriate for chains, doors, or chests. Can be picked with a DL 15 Machinery check. More complex locks that offer higher DLs are available; add an extra 120𝕤 for every 5 points on the DL, to a maximum of 30.
• Manacles – A pair of iron restraints on a short length of chain that prevents a creature from using its arms. These manacles should work for all humanoid creatures of Size 0. Half price for Size −1, Double price for Size 1. Can be escaped with a DL 25 Thievery or Might check. More solid manacles that offer higher DLs are available; add an extra 120𝕤 for every 5 points on the DL, to a maximum of 40.
• Thieves Kit – Lockpicks, caltrops, grease jar, scissors, grappling hook, 50′ rope, crowbar.
• Skald's Kit – Ink, quills, sealing wax and sigil-stamper, loose parchment, bound book with lock, tin-whistle.
• Standard Kit – Backpack, soap, small mirror, cheap perfume, small clay jug, whetstone, straight-razor, needle and thread, candles, dice, leather pouches, grease pencil, map/scroll case, waterskin, torches.

Combat Items

• Acid vial – A small glass container full of a caustic fluid. When thrown or poured onto a combatant, it causes a point of degradation to worn armor (or shield, if a shield is used to parry). The target and anyone within 5 feet of the impact takes 1 point of burning damage. In addition, the target is subject to a Damage Roll. An acid vial has a Harm of 12, and Muscle cannot be included in the Damage Roll.
• Arrows – The ammunition for bows. Most quivers are made to fit 2 dozen arrows. Arrows are single-use items; a successful shot ruins the arrow.
• Black powder grenade – A volatile explosive projectile the size and shape of a pomegranate that must be lit and thrown. The thrower makes an Attack Roll, and anyone within 10 feet from the point of impact can attempt to Dodge. A black powder grenade has a Harm of 20, and Muscle cannot be included in the Damage Roll. It makes a stunning boom; all combatants in range, even those who successfully evade damage, must make a DL 15 Stamina check or move one step down the Knockout Track.
• Bolts – The ammunition for crossbows, heavier than arrows. Pistol crossbow ammunition is 50% of the listed cost. Bolts are sold in bundles of one dozen. Bolts are single-use items; a successful shot ruins the bolt.
• Firearm rounds – A powder horn and bullets for 10 shots. A powder horn can be used as an impromptu black powder grenade. Neither powder nor bullets can be reused.
• Flashbang – A sophisticated mixture of chemicals that erupts with powerful light and sound. Anyone within 10 feet from the point of impact must make a DL 20 Stamina check. Those who fail gain the blinded and deafened conditions for 2 rounds. On a Critical Failure, the conditions last 4 rounds.
• Sea fire – A vial containing a strange, gluey chemical mixture that burns when exposed to air or water. The flames ignite when the vial shatters. Targets struck by this vial immediately catch fire (see Chapter 9: Adventurers Beware). Anyone within 5 feet of the impact takes 1 point of burning damage. Very useful in naval combat, as ship decks, ropes, and sails can be easily set aflame.
• Sick sack – An animal stomach filled with a putrid muck that would make anyone gag. It's gross! A successful hit causes the sack to burst, ejecting its rancid contents. The target must make a DL 15 Vitality check. Failure bestows acute disgust (i.e. nausea and vomiting) a severity 2 illness [treatable, fightable every hour, limited to 12 hours]. On a Critical Failure, the creature gains the unconscious condition. A sick sack can also be imbued with an infectious disease. "Ichor? I barely know her!"
• Smoke screen – A mixture of compounds which produces a plume of thick white smoke. The smoke provides total cover, but ranged shots into the smoke have a 50% chance to hit. The smoke clears away within 10 rounds, unless wind is present, which shortens the duration to 2 rounds.
• Tar ball – A mass of sticky black tar and rope that must be lit and thrown. Targets struck by a lit tar ball catch fire (see Chapter 9: Adventurers Beware). Very useful in naval combat, as ship decks, ropes, and sails can be easily set aflame. Anyone within 5 feet of the impact takes 1 point of burning damage.

Concoctions

• Sleep Tonic – sedative. Nighty night! This hypnotic brew elicits intense drowsiness when consumed. A creature that ingests a sleep tonic must make a DL 15 Vitality check or gain the unconscious condition. The effects last four hours.
• Tranquilizer – paralytic. How do you stop a rhino from charging? A tiny amount of this neurotoxic substance is enough to drop a human. Coat an arrowhead in it and you can stop an elephant. A creature who absorbs this chemical must make a DL 18 Vitality check or gain the muted, paralyzed, and prone conditions. The effects last 90 minutes.
• Smelling Salts – stimulant. It's good to keep some of these in your corner when you're punch drunk. A pungent ammonia smell wafts from this tiny flask.
• Speed Tonic – stimulant: AP bonus
• Inertia Tonic – sedative; AP penalty
• Rage Tonic – stimulant, muscle bonus
• Pacifier – sedative: muscle penalty
• Fear Powder – psychoactive. Paranoia in a bag! A fine talc-like powder bound up in a fragile cloth sack that fits in the palm of your hand. The sack produces a pungent cloud of dust when it strikes a solid object. Any creature within 5 feet of the impact must make a DL 18 Vitality check or gain the rattled condition. The effects last one hour.
• Mind Fog – psychoactive. This coil of incense comprises spices, resins, and oils harvested from rare desert plants. The smoke it produces when lit is severely discombobulating. Creatures that breathe air within 10 feet of a lit coil must make a DL 16 Vitality check or gain the confused and distracted conditions. The effects last one hour.
• Pheromone Salve – psychoactive: bonus to charm (5 ft radius). Desperation is a stinky cologne.
• Numb Tonic – psychoactive: unfeeling. "It doesn't matter." This dram of black fluid strips a creature of its emotions. It tastes gross, but it does the job. Creatures who drink it gain the unfeeling condition. The effects last four hours.

Mounts and Animals

• Riding Horse – Horses serve as excellent transportation and beasts of burden. However, most horses do not fare well in the chaos of combat. Riding horses require their riders to make an Animal Control check (2 AP) against a DL of 12 for each round of combat to keep the horse from throwing its rider and running away. If the check is failed, the rider takes the difference as damage.
• Working Horse – Unlike their brethren who are fleet of foot, working horses are bred to pull a load, such as for farming, or by drawing a cart.
• Warhorse – Warhorses are trained in the arts of warfare and do not require their riders to make checks to avoid being thrown simply because they are in combat.
• Donkey – Donkeys and mules are perfect beasts for hauling heavy gear or awkward tools, or for pulling heavy objects in a harness. Donkeys make poor mounts for combat purposes and will always throw their rider and run away if confronted with hostile forces.
• Ox – Typically a castrated bull, bred as a hardworking animal. They're great at both plowing and transport, but they're not meant to bear a rider.
• Cow – Your standard domesticated cattle. Different breeds may be better suited either as livestock or as dairy animals.
• Pig – The end result of centuries of domesticating wild boars. Renowned for its meat and hide.
• Sheep – This herd animal is favored for its meat, fur, and milk.
• Goat – Closely related to the sheep, but with a cool beard. Also favored for its meat, fur, and milk.
• Chicken – Domesticated fowl. They're widely used for their meat and eggs. Some regions also favor their feathers.

Availability of these animals depends on the geographic region. For instance, camels are more prevalent in the desert nation of Quensid than horses. The grasslands of The Veldt have far more bison than oxen. When appropriate, use the price listed for a similar animal.

Food and Drink

Services

Healing

• 1𝕤 for each point of healing
• 5𝕤 for each point of True Healing (to remove Tainted Damage)
• 10𝕤 to treat curable illness (per level of severity)

Room and Board

• 2𝕤 per night

Stabling

• 1𝕤 per night for horses
• 3𝕤 per night for exotic animals

Shipping/Passage

• 5𝕤 per week of travel for each passenger/piece of cargo

Messenger

• 2𝕤 per day of travel

Outrider Guard

• 10𝕤 per day

Translation

• 5𝕤 per page

Coach Service

• 1𝕤 per 5 miles